The car is now at the upholsterer. Work on the door panels has started, the fiber board on all of them was water damaged, though they can still be used as templates. I dropped off the carpet roll which is a wool material based on the early 99 carpets, rather than the later nylon. The window trim and lock strips have all been installed and look great. For the rear hatch glass I ended up using a 1970s chevy truck lockstrip (WLS-848) which included a seam cap that fit perfectly in the 99’s rubber seal.
the inaugural test flight …..
Drove the car around North Seattle for about 1 hour or so today. Great handling and feel with the new shocks, springs and tires – A real improvement over the stock setup. The engine sounded great, shifting was good, brakes were better than ever. I did have a bit white smoke early on in the drive, but that cleared up in about 15 minutes. I was also burning 2 year old gas. I filled the tank with high test and that seemed to improve things quite a bit. It was a blast driving the car again after a 1.5 year rest. I took it easy, but it sure felt like she had not missed a beat since the valve job Troll Motors performed April before last.
I am hoping to be at the Swedish Car Show at the Triple X drive in in Issaquah on Sunday, February 17th.
little by little
yes .. its still coming together. Maybe Christmas?
Getting the glass back in
One of the windshields I bought in Lewiston ID turned out to be about 1/8″ too thick. I believe it came from a 1971 99 which would have used a different gasket. We tried installing it first and it almost looked as if it could work, but gave up. The other windshield was from a 1978 which had some bubbles in the lamination. While the windshields appear to be identical, they’re not interchangeable.
tool kit clean up and paint
I had the tool kit (except for the jack) media blasted at Alternative Blasters back when the car was done. I had a mix of tools, but at least the large crow bar and jack crank are originals. There was quite a bit of rust/corrosion on them. I used the POR-20 I had left over from the manifolds to paint them. Its a fairly durable paint that loves anything rusty. I used Duplicolor light blue from Schucks/O’Reilly which looks pretty Swedish. Since the stow-away area has been bed lined, I’ll have to figure out how I want to store these. The tools and jack were never clamped down like you’d see in other cars, thought later models had a special box or case for the parts. Before and after.
upp och gå!
I finished up the basic wiring, replacing a few of the crimp on connectors and started up the motor. There was still water in the block, but I needed to add coolant for the radiator and heater. There is a bleed nipple near the heater valve which I ran a hose from to the coolant jug. I ran the car for about 30 minutes to let the thermostat open to cycle the water and force the air out. It took just over one jug of new coolant. The system was flushed April before last when the water pump was rebuilt. The new fan switch and the serviced fan worked great. I had installed a switch that operates at 92C and thermostat which operates at 88C. There are ones that operate at cooler temps, but after I had the header core rebuilt and removed the intake bellows ‘anti-freeze’ collar (which was 100% blocked anyway!) along with the flushed radiator, things should be running cooler. At idle temperature the fan would kick in for 25-30 seconds every couple of minutes, which seems very good.
I still need to get the EGR Proportional completely hooked up, but after that I can finish up with the engine and put the lights in place.